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In this video, after installing the new chain with a pin, the mechanic jerks the chain back and forth horizontally at the end to loosen it up. That seems to me to be bad, chain-weakening advice that will deform the plates at the points where it's stressed. The proper way to loosen the link that you just joined is to put the chain tool on the other side of the chain and apply only a little pressure on the pin. This gives a little separation to the inside plates and pin that you just forced together without causing any deformation of the holes in the chain plates.

The bolt cutters for rusty chain removal are fun, though.

Chuck Davidson

Loved the front derailleur threading commentary.
Sounded familiar...


That is the proper tool, also used for spoke removal.

Grego: If you are able to deform the plates in that way, use a good chain. I tried pressing the pin the other way but that does not always do the trick.

Kevin Wilson

To set the clearance after riveting a chain, most good tools have a place for putting the chain that supports inside the plates.
It sounds like CS has just tried flipping the chain tool to the other side, which as stated will not ease any clearance in there.


What happened to big ring , big cassette cog + 2 links ??(and you put the chain through the rear changer only when you are ready to install the correct length chain !)

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