Second, he came up with a great double headlight system using PVC pipe because he was running out of room on his handlebars. Pretty dope setup for sure! Turns out Jack does know jack. Check out both hacks via the bikecommuters.com site.
One issue I have been curious about for quite some time is why bike companies do not paint frames with reflective paint. We have reflectors, reflective tape, and reflective strips on tires, why not reflective paint on frames? It seems like a no brainer to me, but I received one of my lowest grades ever in high school chemistry so I am not the guy to try to figure it out.
One common way to increase visibility is to use reflective tape, however I learned of another solution due to networking. Check out this email I received:
I was just attending the Portland Bike Expo as a vendor and two
seperate people came up to me and said that they read your site
religiously and that I should contact you about getting my product
reviewed... So, I'd love to submit my hack for you guys to review.
My company is called BikeWrappers and I make reflective wraps that go on your bike frame so you can be seen at night. They go on with velcro so there is no permanent adhesive you are putting on your frame and are temporary so you can swap them out between multiple bikes. In addition to being visible to car headlights from a 1/4 mile away, they help to protect your frame from scratches.
After feeling all warm and fuzzy, I responded and asked if the BikeWrappers creator would like to collaborate. He responded in the affirmative and I received a set to review, and he generously agreed to give away a set to a reader. We are working on contest ideas so stay tuned. In the meantime here is the package I received.
On one side is decorative fabric, and there are many choices on the website to choose from.
And on the other side is reflective fabric that looks like this when you point a smart phone camera on it with the flash on.
When I first tried them on I noticed two things.
1) The fabric will stretch, which is good. My downtube is a bit oversized and you can see at the end of the arrow that some of the Velcro is showing. This is no big deal because it does not really impact visibility/reflectivity.
2) The "bad" thing is that these things have the ability to make my bike actually look good. I love the ghetto nature of my bike, and the picture above shows how the BikeWrappers transform the look of the original appearance of my bike.
As far as performance, BikeWrappers do not disappoint. This is a night picture (with flash) without the wrappers -
As I wrote earlier in this entry, we are working on a giveaway so that a reader can receive a set of BikeWrappers, so stay tuned.
Flashlights have made several appearances on Bike Hacks. We have seen flashlights attached to handlebars with zip ties, hose clamps alone, and hose clamps with a stem assist. We have seen an inner tube assist as well, and thanks to reader Mactire we now have another great example. Check it out -
The Ingredients are as follows:
2 Maglite Minis
1 Nite Ize Maglite Mini LED mod
1 Red Maglite cover glass
1 racebike inner tubing
Full write up is available on Mactire Reviews.
Most front bike lights I have owned would not be that great outside of a well lit urban setting. The lights have made people aware of me, but would likely not be great on a super dark road with no other light around.
Reader Chris wanted to get the attention of cars and see where he is going, and he came up with an awesome hack incorporating a spot light. One thing is for sure, there will be no missing Chris if he is anywhere within a mile of you! Around the 8:20 and 9:30 marks is where you really get a feel for the effectiveness of this hack. Of course I would not want this hack wrongly positioned with Chris coming at me or he might be able to see the inside of my skull =)
Take it away Chris!
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I used the metal bracket from a lattern tree hanger to mount a
rechargeable Stanely spot light on my handlebars. I took everything off
one side of my handle bars, bent the bracket a little to make the
"holes" on the bracket slide over the handle bars, then bent the bracket
around and underneath the stem.
It practically holds itself, but I added zip ties. With the way I mounted it, it could actually be inverted and used to hold another "accessories" bar out in front of your handle bars.
Turns out I am not the only one that struggles to keep the brackets securing various devices to my handlebars in working order. I have broken tabs off of all sorts handlebar brakets meant to hold lights and cyclo-computers. A common hack is to use a rubber band to help hold the computer in place.
Dave from crossgeared.com encountered a similar issue when his bike (he does not specify whether or not he was on it at the time) unexpectedly met a stream bank (his words). He experimented with zip ties but his final solution came with an inner tube. He states:
As many of you know, inner tubes are very useful for a number of purposes other than holding air in your tires. My new mount uses a standard 26 x 2″ mountain tube (I’m guessing it is a 2″ tube, I found it on the trail), and that is it. I just cut a length of tube, cut a window for the computer display, and then another hole to fit around the mount base. Normally I’d give a procedure or some simple instructions, but since all you have to do is cut two holes in an inner tube I’ll just post some photos.
Here is one of his photos to get you started, jump over to crossgeared.com for the full picture show.
There are bike lights, and then there are bike LIGHTS. My rides are mostly urban and I can get by with a lower level light because of all of the ambient light I have access to. Reader Jesse on the other hand wanted to bike in conditions devoid of ambient light and he came up with a bad ass DIY solution. Take it away Jesse . . .
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This hack is for those that like night riding or want to get into it (it's great, never too many people and nice and cool) but think that those 300 lumen lights just don't cut it and don't have the cash for a 1000-2000 lumen lighting system (they can be like $500 - $1,000 dollars, yikes). Even with 1000 lumens, it's just not enough plus some of those systems out there can only last about 2 hours at max power.
There is hope though, with this slightly overdone bike light I built for my mountain bike.
The light is made of 6 cree xml u2 LEDs mounted to a copper and aluminum heat-sink to keep its 60 watts nicely dissipated. To power this light I built a 150 watt-hours lithium polymer battery pack all in-closed in a extruded aluminum case.
I built the case so it can easily attach to any standard water battle cage (you can see on my bike the water bottle cage just happens to be on the bottom of the frame, that's just how GT decided to do there full suspensions those years). The weight of the light and the battery and all the wires come out to just under 3.5 pounds (with the battery being the fatty at 2.9 pounds). I also hooked up a few other cool things like rear red lights and a power level indicator so you know when you have to charge it.
The charging is done with a lithium polymer balance charger for rc cars and helis that I bought just for the light (cost me 30 bucks on ebay). I ended up building the whole thing for about $150 (would only have been $100 if i would have built a battery pack half the size).
For those who know high power LEDs have to be run at constant voltage and current to make them last (these are guaranteed to last 50,000 hours). So I have 3 parallel dc-dc converters with a 93 percent efficiency regulating them to put out 20 watts, 40 watts or full power of 60 watts to make just over 7000 lumen's of light, but the lenses I used are 92 percent efficient and I am getting about 6600 usable lumens.
To put this in comparison a standard headlight of a car gives 1000lm while a D2S Xenon metal halide arc head light you can buy gives you about 3000lm (so double that and that is what I hit the trails with). I can't imagine much more power being useful or very easily created (running this amount of power gives you a problem with heat dissipation which made me do a lot of testing to get a good rough design) but I think I will keep trying. Next I am thinking to go over 9000 lumens (for those dragon ball Z fans out there).
One recurring question I have is, "Why don't bike companies paint frames with reflective paint?" Readers might have more wisdom than I on this topic. Is it too expensive? Is it too difficult? It just seems like common sense to me.
Until bike companies start coating frames with reflective paint, that leaves readers like Sara exploring their own creative ways to improve visibility at night. Take it away Sara . . .
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Covered my commuterized Specialized Myka Elite Disc in cheap reflective tape from ebay.
Really effective and also makes it look like an undesirable rubbish bike!
Reader Ross wrote to us with an enlightening hack. In his own words he states:
I came up with this hack because I entered a 24-hour mountain bike race and didn't have a high powered headlight/backup headlight system.
He labels his hack: Cheap and easy 340 lumen bicycle light and mounting bracket. I would officially change it to:
BADASS Cheap and easy 340 lumen bicycle light and mounting bracket
The pictures and instructions are all Ross. Makes me want to go out a buy a Dremel. Thanks Ross!
-Old handlebar stem
-(4) medium hose clamps
-(2) high-power LED flashlights
-Dremel with cutting wheel
-(optional) Pipe cutter
Note: I found two 170 lumen LED flashlights on sale at Kmart, but you can use any aluminum-body flashlights you have on hand or see for sale cheap. Use aluminum-body flashlights for better heat dissipation (the mount works as a heat sink).
1. Remove and discard the stem binder bolt and cinch (the triangular/cylindrical piece that holds the stem against the inside of the fork tube)
2. With a pipe cutter or Dremel with cutting wheel, cut off the pointy part of the stem and file off any rough edges. Wouldn't want to impale somebody with that!
Caution: You MUST wear safety glasses when cutting metal. Don't force the cutting wheel -- let it do the work on its own. Aim the sparks away from your eyes. Cool the stem with water as it gets hot.
3. Using the Dremel with cutting wheel, cut eight 1/2" slots in the stem tube. Cut four slots (upper and lower slots) on each side of the stem tube. Cool the stem with water as it gets hot.
4. Unscrew a hose clamp. Insert the clamp tip into a lower slot in the stem, then out through an upper slot. Repeat for the remaining three clamps.
5. Secure the flashlights to the modified stem using the clamps.
6. Attach the assembly to your handlebars. I prefer to hang the assembly below my handlebars.
7. Adjust beam angle, as needed.
Reader Mike sent along a creative hack for repurposing this thing, which prior to him contacting me I had no idea existed. I must say that I am proud that I did not know it existed.
Take it away Mike . . . .
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I used one of those silly "flashing mouth" LED things (like this). They consist of four LEDs, two batteries and a power button, all wired to flash at a seizure-inducing frequency and packaged into a rubber case that you're supposed to put in your mouth so people thing you've eaten a rainbow. They lend themselves to hackery because they have a simple on/off, whereas many flashing-LED toys (like bouncy balls, yo-yos) tend to have gravity-operated switches or auto-off timers that never stop before the effect wears out its welcome.
I bolted a metal bracket to a stack of about ten of those transparent CD-shaped plastic things you often get with a spindle of real CDs, sandwiched between two black CD-shaped plastic things you often get with a spindle of real CDs. Note: "real" CDs light up passably well, though not as brightly as the clear plastic because the light can't bounce around as much inside the stack (though presumably you'd get clearer color separation). I placed the flasher at an angle so I could use fewer discs, but it could be mounted vertically too. I then trimmed away some excess rubber and hot-glued the flasher to the edge of the CD stack, piling up a wedge of glue so the flasher can recline comfortably, and the button is easy to reach.
When switched on, each LED hits the edge of a couple of CDs and lights it up. The effect is surprisingly bright, particularly when viewed straight-on (or from "sitting in a car" level). Anyway, I hastily tied it to my bike rack and it survived its maiden voyage to work: concept proven. And since the flasher was designed to sit in one's mouth, I assume that it's spit-proof and therefore waterproof, so I won't mind if it gets a little soggy.
When the batteries die, I'll either open up the flasher and replace them (like 5hockwave2 does here), swap the whole flasher out for a fresh one (I have a couple), or bypass the little on-board batts and wire it to one of the other other electrical items I've got cooking, perhaps it can sit between a pair of turn signals?
Of course this should only be considered supplementary blingification and should by no means replace "real" reflective bike additions or lighting. But it's certainly better than nothing, and is a far preferable to putting that goofy LED contraption in a place reserved for bacon.